Astana-Based Chef Chekanin Showcases Kazakh Cuisine Globally, Fosters Collaboration With Local Farmers

ASTANA — This is the second part of The Astana Times’ exclusive interview with Evgeniy Chekanin, chef at the renowned Selfie restaurant in Astana. In the first part, he shared how Kazakhstan has become a profound source of inspiration for him, leading to the creation of a unique set of dishes inspired by Kazakhstan that delivers an elevated culinary experience for those who taste it.

In this part, Chekanin discusses his efforts to build strong relationships with local farmers, aiming to boost the economy and elevate Kazakhstan’s gastronomy industry while increasing the country’s global culinary reputation.

Chekanin recalled expecting 30-40 guests, but ended up serving nearly 300, proudly representing Kazakhstan. Photo credit: Chekanin’s personal archive

Today, Chekanin is taking his passion for Kazakh cuisine to the international stage, sharing both his inspiration and expertise. This summer, he made a notable appearance at the GASTREET International Restaurant Show, a major event attracting over 5,000 restaurateurs in Sochi. 

Determined to showcase authentic Kazakh flavors, Evgeniy flew in with 23 kilograms of traditional Kazakh food including kazy and shuzhik (Kazakh horse meat sausage). Traveling alone with such a hefty load wasn’t easy. 

Chekanin flew in with 23 kilograms of traditional Kazakh food, including kazy and shuzhik. Photo credit: Chekanin’s personal archive

“It was tough managing everything by myself, especially with the transfers. It felt like everything, even the GASTREET, was against me at first. But I made it through, and when my colleagues saw I had brought 23 kilograms of products, they were stunned!” he recalled.

Chekanin’s commitment paid off as he found himself presenting to a much larger audience than expected. 

“I thought I’d be serving 30 or 40 people, but when I looked up, the entire amphitheater was packed—there were about 300 people in total. I introduced myself as someone from Moscow, but now proudly representing Kazakhstan,” he shared.

Chekanin captivated the audience by humorously contrasting his expectations with the reality he encountered upon moving to Astana. Evgeniy admitted he initially expected vast, empty steppes, showing a photo to emphasize his preconceived notions. However, he was pleasantly surprised to discover a vibrant, modern city with iconic landmarks like Khan Shatyr and the Abu Dhabi Plaza. 

The audience erupted in applause, impressed by his journey and his engaging storytelling. Following the presentation, many attendees approached him, eager to know more about what it’s like to work in Kazakhstan, further highlighting the curiosity and enthusiasm his insights sparked.

On challenges working in Astana

Evgeniy candidly discussed the challenges of working in Kazakhstan, emphasizing the significant impact of the country’s harsh winters. 

“The cold itself doesn’t bother me, but when the roads are buried in snow, and deliveries can’t get through, it affects the entire city, not just me,” he explained. 

Such difficulties push him and his team to be resourceful, often having to adapt menus on the fly when certain ingredients are delayed. Despite these hurdles, Evgeniy’s resilience and ingenuity shine through, proving his ability to navigate the unique demands of Kazakhstan’s realities. 

Chekanin said that his and the restaurant’s focus on local cuisine not only attracts visitors to the city but also puts them on the radar of prestigious global rankings, like the Top 50 Best Restaurants.

Chekanin discusses the challenges of working with local farmers during his conversation with The Astana Times’ Aida Haidar. Photo credit: The Astana Times

“For any chef, being included in these lists is the ultimate goal. I call it the ‘list of immortality’—once you’re in, your legacy is cemented,” he said. 

Chekanin dreams of having his restaurant recognized among the top 100 in Central Asia and Eurasia, and even dreams of one day reaching Michelin status. “If that happens, it would be nothing short of incredible,” he added.

To make this dream a reality, Chekanin and his team have been hosting gastronomic dinners to draw global attention to Kazakhstan. 

“Kazakhstan is at its peak of popularity, and local entrepreneurs are strongly promoting the country’s image,” he explained. 

He noted the rise in shops featuring ethnic clothing and cultural patterns, which he finds both beautiful and significant. 

“I think this unique local identity is something missing in many places around the world,” he added.

 Chekanin also emphasized how the number of high-profile events and VIP guests at his restaurant is rapidly increasing. 

“Comparing this year to last, it’s a completely different story. Last year, things were calmer, allowing me more time to create new dishes. But now, with events like the Shanghai Cooperation Organization Summit and the World Nomad Games, not just Selfie, but all of Kazakhstan, Almaty, and Astana are constantly in the spotlight—and that’s really exciting,” he said.

Plans to enhance collaboration in Kazakhstan’s farming and restaurant sectors

During our conversation, Chekanin touched on the challenges of working with local farmers, emphasizing the complexities involved. 

Working closely with local farmers has brought Evgeniy Chekanin many unique culinary experiences. Photo credit: Selfie’s archive

“As a chef, I don’t have my own farmers or dedicated suppliers, which makes it a labor-intensive process. You need to find transport, ideally with refrigeration, to ensure everything arrives fresh. But that’s the reality—I source ingredients from different regions, which is essential because I want to use local products. It’s important to promote what’s grown here rather than importing from Russia or Europe, as is often done,” he explained. 

Chekanin shared that this approach was instilled in him by his mentors, world-class chefs like Vladimir Mukhin and Anatoly Kazakov, both champions of using local ingredients. 

“They constantly visited farms and encouraged this mindset, which has shaped the way I work today,” Chekanin noted, reflecting on the importance of integrating regional products into his cuisine.

“The hardest challenge is finding local farmers. In Russia, farmers come to you, eager to collaborate. But here, it’s different. We have to search for them and propose partnerships ourselves,” he explained. 

Despite the difficulty, Chekanin has successfully established relationships for specific products, but his vision extends much further. He hopes that one day, the restaurant will reach a point where they can grow their own produce, going beyond sourcing to cultivating ingredients directly from the garden.

“We even had plans to bring in an expert agronomist. We have land available, and we’re serious about building greenhouses to grow products specifically for our restaurant. Everything is in place—the idea, the land, even the budget—but what we’re missing is the right person. I’m confident that sooner or later, we’ll find him,” he shared. 

Chekanin’s dedication to sourcing local and growing his own ingredients reflects his commitment to elevating the culinary experience and creating something truly unique in the region.

On trying homemade Beshbarmaq 

Working closely with local farmers has brought Evgeniy Chekanin many unique culinary experiences. Recently, he had the chance to taste homemade Beshbarmaq (the cornerstone of Kazakh cuisine) prepared by horse breeders, and the difference in flavor compared to restaurant versions left a lasting impression. 

“I had never tried homemade Beshbarmaq before. Everyone told me how amazing it was, but when I finally tasted it, I was blown away. The kazy and shuzhik (meats and sausages) were smoked, and the flavor was simply incredible. I’ve never had anything like it,” he recalled with enthusiasm.

For Evgeniy, gastronomy is a boundless field for creativity, much like an artist painting a masterpiece. Though he experiments with various dishes, there’s always one simple favorite that brings him back to his roots – a fresh vegetable salad. 

“My go-to dish is a salad with cucumber, tomato, lots of onion, lettuce, and a bit of radish. My mother makes this salad, and even though I know exactly what she puts in it, I can never quite replicate the taste. I think everyone has that one dish their mother makes that holds a special place,” he shared fondly.